There are great tips packed into this video… like protoboarding a circuit you know you want instead of breadboarding … using component leads instead of jumpers when possible …

The one thing he doesn’t mention (beginners) is to double check your parts placement before soldering. Also, use -only as much heat as you need- to make those shiny connections — an iron that’s too hot may burn the pad right off the board … inconvenient at best.

The video’s created by Jameco … never ordered from them but they’ve stayed alive 35 years. HOWEVER their prices are a BIT ouch. Futurelec is more reasonable (again…never bought from them.) Locally you can try Rat Shack. Of course, THE BIGGER THE BOARD the BIGGER THE BOX you’ll need to buy to put it in. Yes, you can cut these boards into smaller pieces – if that works for your project.

Further tip: Since there’s plenty of spare room on that board, and I might want to add more options later on, I’d move some of the components apart and use top-side jumper-wire (a length of wire with the ends stripped) instead of soldering them to the same pad.

For example, instead of wiring the output of the .1uf cap after the 3rd Schmidt directly to the volume pot, I’d use a topside/component-side jumper there. That way, later on I could “send” to a 2nd effect board without de-soldering. Just clip the jumper-wire in two, “send” the cap output to the 2nd effect, “receive” its output into the volume pot.
The two ground buses would have to be tied together, and I’d make sure only *signal* goes back and forth, no DC (capacitors block that). Too much signal, drop some resistance in (unless you dig the groovy clipping distortion). This is where a handful of alligator-clip leads come in handy. And a yen for circuit-bending. Locate the awesome, *then* solder it.

Same with the LM386 … jumpers on the in and out. Might add a switch to turn off the 9vdc too.

Link to the Circuit Snippets page seen in the video. You could build 4 or 5 of these for the cost of one pedal at a guitar shop.